For the longest time, stainless steel chains were something we didn't think about stocking.
The quality never felt right for permanent jewellery use, especially alongside our gold filled range. The gold tone often came through too bright, and the finish didn’t sit comfortably within the collection we wanted to offer.
At the same time, chain prices have continued to rise, particularly on the chunkier styles that remain bestsellers.
That combination has been hard to ignore for a lot of permanent jewellery artists, especially when trying to keep both quality and accessibility in their offering, which is why we’ve recently launched our Stainless Steel range.
We’ve introduced stainless steel chains with a softer gold tone that sits much closer to 14k gold filled, while still offering the durability and flexibility that stainless steel is known for. It also gives more flexibility when it comes to pricing, especially for larger or trend-led designs, and opens up chain styles and shapes that aren’t possible in gold filled.
So with that in mind, let’s break down the difference between 14k PVD and gold filled.
Construction Differences
Gold filled jewellery is made by mechanically bonding a thick layer of real gold to a base metal, usually jeweller’s brass. Because the gold layer is substantial, it wears well over time and sits in that space between plated jewellery and solid gold.
PVD stainless steel starts with a stainless steel base. The gold colour is then applied using a physical vapour deposition process, where a thin but durable layer is bonded to the surface at a molecular level. In simple terms, it’s a coating, but one that’s built to hold up far better than standard plating.
So while both can achieve a gold finish, the way that finish is created is completely different, and that affects how each material holds up over time.
Colour Differences
Colour was one of the first things we looked at closely when testing both materials.
Gold filled has a warm, soft yellow tone that closely reflects solid gold. Across the different chain styles we carry, the tone stays consistent, which is why it works so well within most collections.
With stainless steel, the colour comes entirely from the PVD finish. PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) is a coating process where a thin layer of gold is bonded to the surface of the steel, rather than simply plated on top. This is where we noticed the biggest variation in tone.
In earlier 18k PVD styles we tested, the colour often came through quite bright and more yellow than expected, particularly on chunkier chains like paperclip and curb styles.
Switching to a 14k PVD finish made a clear difference. The tone softened straight away, sitting closer to the shade we see in 14k gold filled trace and cable chains, rather than a deeper or more intense yellow.
From our testing, this softer finish makes it much easier to build out a consistent collection without certain chain styles standing out for the wrong reasons.
Durability
When it comes to 14k PVD vs Gold Filled, durability is something we’ve taken time to properly look at before bringing anything into the range.
Gold filled performs well because of the thick layer of real gold bonded to the base metal. From what we’ve seen, it holds up really consistently with everyday wear when it’s cared for properly, which is why it’s such a trusted option in the PJ community.
With PVD stainless steel, the strength comes from the base material itself. Stainless steel is naturally resistant to tarnish, water, and general wear, making it a strong choice for everyday pieces. The PVD coating is then bonded to the surface to hold the colour, rather than sitting on top like traditional plating.
In testing, we’ve found stainless steel works particularly well for chunkier or more trend-led styles that are worn often, especially where durability and low maintenance matter just as much as the look.
Price Point
With chain prices continuing to rise, especially on the chunkier styles that are some of the strongest sellers in permanent jewellery, pricing has become a big part of the conversation around 14k PVD vs Gold Filled.
Gold filled typically sits at a higher price point because it contains a thicker layer of real gold and requires more precious metal in its production. This results in:
- Higher retail prices for finished pieces
- A stronger focus on long-term wear and value
- Customers who are comfortable investing more upfront|
- A foundation material for permanent jewellery collections
14k PVD sits at a more accessible price point due to its base material and coating process. This allows for:
- Lower retail prices for finished pieces
- Easier access to chunkier chain styles
- More flexibility when building out price ranges
- Options that work well across a wider range of customer budgets
Ideal Customer Types
Gold filled tends to suit customers who are looking for a more traditional precious metal option. These are usually clients who value long-term wear, a consistent finish, and a warmer gold tone that feels closer to solid gold jewellery. They’re also more comfortable investing in higher-priced pieces that are intended to be worn daily.
14k PVD often suits customers who want a more accessible price point or prefer to keep their spend lower. It works well for clients who enjoy chunkier styles, like to change up their jewellery more often, or want something that still looks polished without the higher cost of precious metal content.
Having 14k PVD and Gold Filled in your range allows you to offer both premium and more accessible price points within a single permanent jewellery setup.
Why Both 14k PVD & Gold Filled Chains Have a Place in a Permanent Jewellery Business
Permanent jewellery is always influenced by changing styles, with demand often shifting between fine everyday chains and chunkier, more statement designs.
That’s where the balance between gold filled and PVD stainless steel becomes important.
Gold filled does sit at a higher price point compared to 14k PVD, but we still see many customers willing to invest in those pieces for the quality, real gold look and feel, and long-wear appeal it offers. It’s a material that’s been tried and tested in permanent jewellery for a long time, and continues to perform well in everyday wear.
14k PVD, on the other hand, gives artists more flexibility when it comes to pricing, helping keep certain styles more accessible without compromising on finish or quality. It’s a newer option in permanent jewellery collections that works well for everyday wear.
It also gives artists the ability to cater to customers who want a more affordable option, while still offering pieces that feel polished and wearable. At the same time, it opens the door to seeing more variety in the styles being created and introduced across collections, which is something we’re genuinely excited to see develop further in the industry.
Having these options is what makes them work within a permanent jewellery business, giving artists the flexibility to structure their pricing, expand their product range, and meet different customer expectations without limiting what they can offer.
Stainless steel isn’t here to replace your current offerings, it’s here to work alongside them.
By adding stainless steel into your collection, you can offer customers even more variety in styles and pricing, while also creating more opportunities for add-ons like second chains, chunkier statement pieces, and extra charms. It’s all about giving artists more flexibility without compromising on quality or wearability.
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